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September

Looking back, I’m not sure exactly where September went, although I had lots of different small projects going, including bridal orders, teaching (and taking) classes at Stitch Lab, a “Hello Birdie!” hat collaboration for a silent auction, and ramp-up to a costume design project, which was cast in mid-September.

At Stitch Lab, I taught my second round of the Buckram Series in which students learn how to pattern and build a buckram and wire frame pillbox AND also how to block buckram to make a cocktail hat or fascinator base.  I love this class because it is so labor-intensive (3 full Saturdays in a row) and rewarding.  Buckram is a wonderful millinery foundation material that is incredibly versatile.  Somehow I failed to take photos of the hats made by my students (perhaps they’re on the Lab camera rather than my personal one???) but here’s a shot of two buckram frame hats that I made earlier this year for an art exhibit:

 

Mini Top Hat and Heart-shaped Pillbox, both in red silk taffeta

Mini Top Hat and Heart-shaped Pillbox, both in red silk taffeta

I did take photos for the next class, Felt Cloche, which I taught on Sept 17 and 24.  Kat, Nancy, and Maggie were delightful students and we all had fun blocking and trimming, whilst wishing for cooler weather to arrive so that the new hats could be worn!

 

Fur felt hoods blocked on balsa forms

Fur felt hoods blocked on balsa forms

 

Kat in her charcoal grey cloche with hand-dyed silk ribbon and vintage buckle

Kat in her charcoal grey cloche with hand-dyed silk ribbon and vintage buckle

I had the pleasure of taking a 4-class series from the talented Kathleen McTee (pic’d above) in Screen Printing, which was a textile technique that I hadn’t played with much since undergrad Surface Design classes.  She is a wonderful instructor and I love how accessible she makes the art of making and using silk screens.  I had hoped to experiment with screening designs onto unblocked hoods and capelines, and was thrilled with my results.  I’ll definitely be incorporating some hand silk screened motifs into Milli Starr’s spring 2010 collection.

 

Sample silk screen on parasisol straw

Sample silk screen on parasisol straw

 

I also made bigger screens for t-shirts, wall prints, etc, of which my favorite is this one, taken from an image of Isabella Blow.  She was an incomparable fashion eccentric and muse.  And hat lover, of course.

 

Silk screen of Isabella Blow

Silk screen of Isabella Blow

Finally, I accepted an invitation to collaborate on an “art hat” for the 6th Annual “Hello Birdie!” event benefitting Uplift Austin.  While I often donate a hat or headpiece to a good cause, this was the first time I have ever collaborated with another artist, and while it was a great learning experience, I would definitely approach a joint-production differently in the future.

I worked with artist Curlin Reed Sulivan to design a birdhouse-inspired hat for their silent auction.  We decided upon a design and a color - chartreuse - then I blocked the hat, wired and finished it, and stitched on all of the trims, including a darling flower girl and bird which were needle-felted by Curlin.  Here she is modeling the finished hat:

 

"A Little Birdie Told Me..." by Milli Starr & Pippingtooth Studios

"A Little Birdie Told Me..." by Milli Starr & Pippingtooth Studios

Cute, huh?  Curlin creates all sorts of Flower Girls including greeting cards, shadow boxes, vases, even embroidery kits.  You can shop her darling art online at Pippingtooth Studio.

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August & Cowboy Chic

Austin Fashion Week blurred into my next big event, entitled “Cowboy Chic”, on August 5th at a wonderful boutique, Beyond Tradition, in Austin’s 2nd Street District.

Event Poster by Grafix by Dell.  Model Photography by La Pistola.

Event Poster by Grafix by Dell. Model Photography by La Pistola.

The evening featured Milli Starr and Deborah Main Designs, winner of Austin Fashion Week’s “Best Home Decor” award.  DMD is known for its exquisite handmade pillows, including a collection using vintage souvenir scarves from Texas and other western states.  The scarves have wonderful colors and motifs of bucking broncos, cowboys and cowgirls, cacti, and of course, landmarks and tourist destinations of yesteryear.

Deborah Main Designs.  photo by JoBelle Smith.

Deborah Main Designs

I spent the last 2 weeks of July blocking and finishing 12 parasisol straw western hats, in a myriad of colors and trims, from vintage metallic braids to peacock feathers and sequins.

Milli Starr western hat modeled by Rachel Elsberry

Milli Starr western hat modeled by Rachel Elsberry

Hats, pillows, and traditional Southwestern turquoise and silver jewelry were modeled in a mini-fashion show; everyone indulged in food from III Forks and margaritas from Cantina Laredo, while enjoying live music from fiddle phenomena Ruby Jane Smith.   “Cowboy Chic” was incredibly well-attended and loads of fun.  Here’s a few more pics (courtesy of JoBelle Smith):

 

Model Jessa Peters

Model Jessa Peters

 

Model Christian Ramirez

Model Christian Ramirez

 

Love this shot of a blue hat with feather band.

Love this shot of a blue hat with feather band.

 

Ruby Jane in a ruby-red hat

Ruby Jane in a ruby-red hat

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Ack!  HUGE apologies for setting my blog-duties aside for four months.  Time flies; I need a clone; I need sleep (always) but am happy to be busy doing the work that I love.  I have made more hats, and shared my love of hats, with more people this year than ever before, and that feels really good.

Austin Fashion Week was all about the fashion and beauty talent in this capital city.  I participated (officially) in two events at Maximum FX salon, and thoroughly enjoyed meeting new people, especially the lovely ladies who modeled Milli Starr accessories, along with stunning vintage frocks from Amelia’s.

 

Vintage Dresses and Milli Starr headpieces

Vintage Dresses and Milli Starr headpieces

 

 Attending the AFW Awards Show and After Party was a great conclusion to a hectic week, and of course, I always LOVE an opportunity to dress up:  1920’s Chinese silk embroidered pajamas and a fascinator featuring a Victorian feather bird and veil.  AFW garnered some great press and has led to wonderful new connections and opportunities, many of which I’ll share in these next few posts.  I am excited about what AFW will present in 2010!

 

Milli Starr on the Red Carpet

Milli Starr on the Red Carpet

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A few extra notes about the hat-making demo that I’ll be doing on Friday for Austin Fashion Week at Maximum FX salon.  Join me from 2 -4 pm for all the fun stuff listed below plus refreshing iced tea brewed from Aveda’s own herbal infusion of licorice and peppermint plus yummy chocolate chip scones from Sugar Tooth Bakery.  Chocolate and hats.  My idea of heaven…

Just a head’s up because I know more details will be coming…

Milli Starr is one of the participating designers in the first-ever Austin Fashion Week, July 13-19.  It should be TONS of fun with local designers (clothing, accessories, jewelry, home goods) pairing with boutiques and salons to showcase their fabulous merchandise in mini stores-within-stores for one week only.  There are over 130 events planned all over town, including an awards show Sunday night at the Long Center featuring a fashion show, music, and more, hosted by the beautiful and talented Jenny Hart of Sublime Stitching.

afw_poster_week

I have been paired with Maximum FX salon on South Congress, and while they don’t have the ideal 8′ x 8′ space for me to set up “shop,” I will definitely be down there with some creative merchandising and as many NEW designs as I can find room for —  I’m sure there’ll be feather fascinators alongside the Aveda candles.  :0)

I’ve been working non-stop on two new straw collections, both featuring gorgeous vintage French trims from the mid-20th century.  This orange cloche, hand-blocked with free form pleating and adorned with a carved wooden buckle, is a great preview of the Summer Collection that will be featured at Maximum FX.

 

Summer 2009 Collection

Summer 2009 Collection

There will be an informal fashion show Thursday night with models wearing unique millinery designs by Milli Starr and showing off the latest in hair trends created by the team of Aveda stylists.  On Friday from 2-4 pm, I will be on hand for “Methods of a Mad Hatter,” a hat-making demo featuring some basic blocking and finishing techniques, common millinery materials & equipment, etc.  Please come by and see me!

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I taught another round of the felt cloche class at Stitch Lab last weekend, offering a Friday night/Saturday afternoon workshop that was great.  I didn’t have to schlep all of the steamers and blocks twice, a student was able to come from the Dallas area and attend with minimal travel expenses, plus it allowed for a continuity in the hat-making process which was wonderful.  Here’s pics of the two very different designs that resulted:

Sharon blocked a deep cloche hat with an up-turned, asymmetrical brim that was fringed along the front edge - fun! - and slashed above the left ear to reveal a “feather” bauble and the vintage silk velvet ribbon band.

 

Felt Cloche with Fringed Brim

Felt Cloche with Fringed Brim

And Ginger blocked a sportier hat with a pleated crown and brim, all neatly topstitched by hand.  With excess felt trimmed from the brim and a gold-tone button, she fashioned a petaled flower for the side and found the perfect brown rayon and metallic ribbon for the band.  Too cute!

 

Brown Hat with Felt Flower

Brown Hat with Felt Flower

Just for kicks, I’ll also post  a couple images of a fur felt hat I made yesterday using the same basic techniques and balsa utility blocks that we use in the Felt Cloche class.  This hat is blocked from a capeline, rather than a hood, and is the historical bicorne shape, perfect for trims — hand-dyed silk ribbons, antique buckles, and three ostrich plumes for this particular beauty.

 

Felt Bicorne with Silk Ribbons (F)

Felt Bicorne with Silk Ribbons (F)

 

Felt Bicorne (Side)

Felt Bicorne (Side)

It is a donation for a silent auction at Austin’s French Legation Museum which hosts a Bastille Day event annually.  Go bid on my hat, hear Olivier Giraud & Continental Graffiti play music reminiscent of Paris in the 1930’s, dance, and indulge in French food & wine, all while supporting a beautiful historic structure in East Austin.  Ooh la la!

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Feather Fascinators

It’s been awhile since I’ve taught a Fascinator class at Stitch Lab.  I really thought it would be a course with a more seasonal appeal - fascinators for holiday & New Year’s parties, spring prom, etc. - but it was generating quite the request/waiting list, even in the blistering summer heat of Austin.  So I re-vamped the class a bit, brought a lot more materials for students to play with (including some very cute millinery fruit from the 1930’s) and spent a very fun Friday evening teaching four ladies how to make fascinators.

Because sinamay fascinator bases are basically impossible to get in the US, I custom block bases for my students, specifically for this class.  (Yes, they are available for purchase if you ask nicely).  I decided to make them a little bigger for this class (18 inch circumference) so students would have more room to drape and design a variety of trims, including veiling, crinoline, oodles of feathers, flowers, berries, and more.

 

Straw Fascinator Base

Straw Fascinator Base

I whipped up a sample with some dyed peacock, pheasant and ostrich feathers (biots, too), a metal insect, and veiling:

Sample Fascinator

Sample Fascinator

Victoria used an Art Deco celluloid buckle in her design, a few of those 1930’s fruits, and some ostrich feathers.  The colors worked really well with her red hair:

 

Golden Fascinator

Golden Fascinator

The other students created wonderful pieces too, and all though they enrolled together with the mission of learning more about bridal fascinators for the upcoming wedding of the young lady pictured below center, each had a very unique design by the end of the evening - bold red & black feathers and veiling on a black sinamay base, black iridescent coque and peacock feathers on a smaller tear-drop shaped base, and a white feather flower mounted on a simple comb.

Three more Fascinators

Three more Fascinators

This is definitely one of the most fun classes in my opinion, probably because there are so few rules about how to construct your hat/headpiece.  Each piece is so individual.  And frivolous rather than functional.

More classes will be added to the Stitch Lab schedule soon, and a Fascinator party is in the works for November, somewhere around Catherinette’s Day (patron Saint of Millinery).  More details on that later.

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I promised that I would post a photo of the re-make of the western hat that was trounced by the German Shepherd, so here it is.  I started with a brand new velour felt capeline, blocked, wired and hand-finished the brim, then added the gorgeous silver and black trims.  Luckily, I had just enough of the metallic lace and beads to remake the band.  I still can’t believe the Art Deco ornament survived, but it’s perfect.

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I cleaned and re-blocked the damaged felt, and although it wasn’t able to be blocked into a wide-brimmed western hat again, it did make a lovely little cloche.  I trimmed it with a beautiful vintage lace and gave it to the client as a gift and souvenir of the dog-ate-my-hat incident.

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I have been in Hartford, Connecticut for the past ten days doing pre-production wardrobe work for Greater Tuna, a hilarious comedy which will feature Neal Mayer and Brian Mathis, in the roles created by Jaston Williams and Joe Sears.  It is being produced by and performed at the historic Bushnell Performing Arts Center, a beautiful Art Deco theatre built in 1929.

Among the many talented stars who have graced Bushnell’s Mortenson Stage over its 75 year history is one of my all-time favorite actresses, Katherine Hepburn. Kate Hepburn was a remarkable woman for her time, known for her casual grace and stubborn independence.  While her style was more functional than feminine (she wore pants on stage and off), I did find several film stills of Ms. Hepburn sporting some fabulous millinery from the 1940’s and thought I’d share:

katharinehepburninundercurrent1946

"Under Current" 1946

 

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I think it’s interesting that each of these hats tie under the chin.  Probably so the notoriously athletic and enthusiastic Kate wouldn’t lose her hat.  More often than not, Kate is pictured without a hat (just that fabulous mane of hair) or perhaps a kerchief, tied under her chin.  Katherine Hepburn is buried in Hartford, but I did not get a chance to visit the site.

I did visit a few other sites around Hartford, though, including the Mark Twain House, built in 1874 with one of the very first interiors by Associated Artists & Louis Comfort Tiffany.

I also saw a fascinating exhibit on The Ballets Russes (who performed at the Bushnell in 1935 and 1937) which is at the Wadsworth Atheneum Museum through June 21.  The exhibit features original illustrations and paintings of costume and set designs, as well as extant costumes.  The Ballets Russes had an enormous impact on art, fashion, and culture after it premiered in Paris in 1909.  The exotic color palette and modern choreography both shocked and intrigued audiences.  Founder Serge Diaghilev introduced the famed Anna Pavlova and Vaslav Nijinsky to the West, but also many emerging modern artists, such as Leon Bakst, Henri Matisse, and Pablo Picasso, whom he employed as set and costume designers.

"Le Soleil de Nuit" 1915

"Le Soleil de Nuit" 1915

Some of the most beautiful exhibit objects were the costumes designed by Matisse for “Le Rossignol” .  Hand-painted silks and metallic hand-embroidery that embody the Orientalism and historicism typical of The Ballets Russes.

And the gold-leaf embellished costume illustrations by Bakst:

L'Apres-Midi d'un Faune 1912

L'Apres-Midi d'un Faune 1912

I am a HUGE fan of historic costume and textiles, so it was a treat to spend a lunch hour gazing upon such beautiful examples of theatrical handiwork.  Then back to work training the dressers on all the quick change choreography for Greater Tuna (2 actors, 38 costume changes, some in as little as 4 seconds!)  Backstage fun and magic (well, velcro).

 

 

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I frequently restore vintage hats, or even modern hats that have been mushed, rained on, or otherwise abused.  I even re-blocked and re-banded a Borsalino felt fedora that a guy put through a dishwasher cycle, mistakenly thinking this was a good way to clean a hat — a baseball cap maybe; fedora NO! But I have never had to restore one of my own designs, until a gorgeous custom western hat met a German Shepherd who was very upset that her owner had left her home alone.

This hat is a one-of-a-kind, handmade beauty in black velour felt.  The crown and flange brim blocks were custom made for Milli Starr from sketches.  It is trimmed with vintage silver metallic lace, overlaid with a striped ribbon, and hand beaded with tiny Czech glass beads.  The center front is adorned with a metallic straw “feather” with a a pearly center and beaded tassels.

 

Before

Before

The dog managed to get the hat out of a hat box (which had been up on a table) and then mangled it.  The horrible part is that she ate the entire lace and ribbon and bead band (24″ long) and had to be hospitalized for intestinal blockage and observation.  Poor Puppy!  I am so glad she is ok. The dog also managed to eat the grosgrain headsize ribbon, although I have no idea how she got all those tiny pick stitches out.  Luckily, the 1920’s metallic straw centerpiece is entirely unmarred.  I guess it wasn’t as yummy as the ribbons.

 

After

After

This weekend, I will clean and steam the velour felt body, and see if I can get it re-blocked.  It’s doubtful, because the brim edge is very complicated and I know I won’t have enough in the width of the felt to properly block and rope the edge.  And once wire is kinked that badly, it’s done for.  Removing all that hand-stitching will further weaken the felt along the edge.  I’m pretty sure I’ll be starting fresh with a brand new velour felt capeline.  I have just enough metallic lace to do another band and extra beads, etc.  The 1920’s ornament is a one-of-a-kind treasure discovered amongst a trove of dead-stock millinery trims from Paris.  Because it survived, I’ll be able to re-create the custom hat.

A new dog-sitter will be found and all ends well.  I’ll post photos of the duplicate hat once it’s complete.

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