1920’s

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I frequently restore vintage hats, or even modern hats that have been mushed, rained on, or otherwise abused.  I even re-blocked and re-banded a Borsalino felt fedora that a guy put through a dishwasher cycle, mistakenly thinking this was a good way to clean a hat — a baseball cap maybe; fedora NO! But I have never had to restore one of my own designs, until a gorgeous custom western hat met a German Shepherd who was very upset that her owner had left her home alone.

This hat is a one-of-a-kind, handmade beauty in black velour felt.  The crown and flange brim blocks were custom made for Milli Starr from sketches.  It is trimmed with vintage silver metallic lace, overlaid with a striped ribbon, and hand beaded with tiny Czech glass beads.  The center front is adorned with a metallic straw “feather” with a a pearly center and beaded tassels.

 

Before

Before

The dog managed to get the hat out of a hat box (which had been up on a table) and then mangled it.  The horrible part is that she ate the entire lace and ribbon and bead band (24″ long) and had to be hospitalized for intestinal blockage and observation.  Poor Puppy!  I am so glad she is ok. The dog also managed to eat the grosgrain headsize ribbon, although I have no idea how she got all those tiny pick stitches out.  Luckily, the 1920’s metallic straw centerpiece is entirely unmarred.  I guess it wasn’t as yummy as the ribbons.

 

After

After

This weekend, I will clean and steam the velour felt body, and see if I can get it re-blocked.  It’s doubtful, because the brim edge is very complicated and I know I won’t have enough in the width of the felt to properly block and rope the edge.  And once wire is kinked that badly, it’s done for.  Removing all that hand-stitching will further weaken the felt along the edge.  I’m pretty sure I’ll be starting fresh with a brand new velour felt capeline.  I have just enough metallic lace to do another band and extra beads, etc.  The 1920’s ornament is a one-of-a-kind treasure discovered amongst a trove of dead-stock millinery trims from Paris.  Because it survived, I’ll be able to re-create the custom hat.

A new dog-sitter will be found and all ends well.  I’ll post photos of the duplicate hat once it’s complete.

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Felt Cloches

The past two Thursday nights, I have been teaching a course on basic millinery blocking techniques in which the students design, block, and finish felt cloches.  The first class began with a brief discussion of types of felt (wool, fur, velour, etc) and blanks used in hat making (hoods, flares, capelines, etc).  Each student received a fur felt hood and a was assigned a balsa utility block in their head size.  Then we spent awhile gleefully looking through illustrations of hats from the early twentieth century for ideas and inspirations.  The Dover publications of Everyday Fashions from the 1920’s and Everyday Fashions of the 1930’s were a big hit.

After a quick demonstration by me, the students turned on the steamers and began. Each had a different color and a very different design in mind, which was perfect as I was able to assist one-on-one and share a variety of techniques with everyone.  Here’s a photo of the hats after they came out of the oven: a slouch fedora, a Deco pleated cloche, and a cloche with an asymmetrical, slashed brim (the charcoal one in the back is my demo).

Fur Felt Hats on Balsa Utility Blocks

During the second class, hats were removed from the balsa blocks and millinery grosgrain was hand-stitched in to stabilize the head size.  Some fine-tuning was done with the steamer, stretcher, and steam iron.  Victoria decided her crown was too high, so I walked her through cutting the crown from brim, then inserting the brim (with excess) into the crown and stitching all back together again.  A nice trick for a high crown, but also if one wanted a contrast-color crown and brim.  Brims were trimmed down if needed, then sanded lightly.  After the addition of ribbon bands and a feather or flower, voila!  Three wonderful wear-able felt hats.

 

Don't they look proud of their hats?

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