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September

Looking back, I’m not sure exactly where September went, although I had lots of different small projects going, including bridal orders, teaching (and taking) classes at Stitch Lab, a “Hello Birdie!” hat collaboration for a silent auction, and ramp-up to a costume design project, which was cast in mid-September.

At Stitch Lab, I taught my second round of the Buckram Series in which students learn how to pattern and build a buckram and wire frame pillbox AND also how to block buckram to make a cocktail hat or fascinator base.  I love this class because it is so labor-intensive (3 full Saturdays in a row) and rewarding.  Buckram is a wonderful millinery foundation material that is incredibly versatile.  Somehow I failed to take photos of the hats made by my students (perhaps they’re on the Lab camera rather than my personal one???) but here’s a shot of two buckram frame hats that I made earlier this year for an art exhibit:

 

Mini Top Hat and Heart-shaped Pillbox, both in red silk taffeta

Mini Top Hat and Heart-shaped Pillbox, both in red silk taffeta

I did take photos for the next class, Felt Cloche, which I taught on Sept 17 and 24.  Kat, Nancy, and Maggie were delightful students and we all had fun blocking and trimming, whilst wishing for cooler weather to arrive so that the new hats could be worn!

 

Fur felt hoods blocked on balsa forms

Fur felt hoods blocked on balsa forms

 

Kat in her charcoal grey cloche with hand-dyed silk ribbon and vintage buckle

Kat in her charcoal grey cloche with hand-dyed silk ribbon and vintage buckle

I had the pleasure of taking a 4-class series from the talented Kathleen McTee (pic’d above) in Screen Printing, which was a textile technique that I hadn’t played with much since undergrad Surface Design classes.  She is a wonderful instructor and I love how accessible she makes the art of making and using silk screens.  I had hoped to experiment with screening designs onto unblocked hoods and capelines, and was thrilled with my results.  I’ll definitely be incorporating some hand silk screened motifs into Milli Starr’s spring 2010 collection.

 

Sample silk screen on parasisol straw

Sample silk screen on parasisol straw

 

I also made bigger screens for t-shirts, wall prints, etc, of which my favorite is this one, taken from an image of Isabella Blow.  She was an incomparable fashion eccentric and muse.  And hat lover, of course.

 

Silk screen of Isabella Blow

Silk screen of Isabella Blow

Finally, I accepted an invitation to collaborate on an “art hat” for the 6th Annual “Hello Birdie!” event benefitting Uplift Austin.  While I often donate a hat or headpiece to a good cause, this was the first time I have ever collaborated with another artist, and while it was a great learning experience, I would definitely approach a joint-production differently in the future.

I worked with artist Curlin Reed Sulivan to design a birdhouse-inspired hat for their silent auction.  We decided upon a design and a color - chartreuse - then I blocked the hat, wired and finished it, and stitched on all of the trims, including a darling flower girl and bird which were needle-felted by Curlin.  Here she is modeling the finished hat:

 

"A Little Birdie Told Me..." by Milli Starr & Pippingtooth Studios

"A Little Birdie Told Me..." by Milli Starr & Pippingtooth Studios

Cute, huh?  Curlin creates all sorts of Flower Girls including greeting cards, shadow boxes, vases, even embroidery kits.  You can shop her darling art online at Pippingtooth Studio.

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I taught another round of the felt cloche class at Stitch Lab last weekend, offering a Friday night/Saturday afternoon workshop that was great.  I didn’t have to schlep all of the steamers and blocks twice, a student was able to come from the Dallas area and attend with minimal travel expenses, plus it allowed for a continuity in the hat-making process which was wonderful.  Here’s pics of the two very different designs that resulted:

Sharon blocked a deep cloche hat with an up-turned, asymmetrical brim that was fringed along the front edge - fun! - and slashed above the left ear to reveal a “feather” bauble and the vintage silk velvet ribbon band.

 

Felt Cloche with Fringed Brim

Felt Cloche with Fringed Brim

And Ginger blocked a sportier hat with a pleated crown and brim, all neatly topstitched by hand.  With excess felt trimmed from the brim and a gold-tone button, she fashioned a petaled flower for the side and found the perfect brown rayon and metallic ribbon for the band.  Too cute!

 

Brown Hat with Felt Flower

Brown Hat with Felt Flower

Just for kicks, I’ll also post  a couple images of a fur felt hat I made yesterday using the same basic techniques and balsa utility blocks that we use in the Felt Cloche class.  This hat is blocked from a capeline, rather than a hood, and is the historical bicorne shape, perfect for trims — hand-dyed silk ribbons, antique buckles, and three ostrich plumes for this particular beauty.

 

Felt Bicorne with Silk Ribbons (F)

Felt Bicorne with Silk Ribbons (F)

 

Felt Bicorne (Side)

Felt Bicorne (Side)

It is a donation for a silent auction at Austin’s French Legation Museum which hosts a Bastille Day event annually.  Go bid on my hat, hear Olivier Giraud & Continental Graffiti play music reminiscent of Paris in the 1930’s, dance, and indulge in French food & wine, all while supporting a beautiful historic structure in East Austin.  Ooh la la!

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I promised that I would post a photo of the re-make of the western hat that was trounced by the German Shepherd, so here it is.  I started with a brand new velour felt capeline, blocked, wired and hand-finished the brim, then added the gorgeous silver and black trims.  Luckily, I had just enough of the metallic lace and beads to remake the band.  I still can’t believe the Art Deco ornament survived, but it’s perfect.

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I cleaned and re-blocked the damaged felt, and although it wasn’t able to be blocked into a wide-brimmed western hat again, it did make a lovely little cloche.  I trimmed it with a beautiful vintage lace and gave it to the client as a gift and souvenir of the dog-ate-my-hat incident.

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I frequently restore vintage hats, or even modern hats that have been mushed, rained on, or otherwise abused.  I even re-blocked and re-banded a Borsalino felt fedora that a guy put through a dishwasher cycle, mistakenly thinking this was a good way to clean a hat — a baseball cap maybe; fedora NO! But I have never had to restore one of my own designs, until a gorgeous custom western hat met a German Shepherd who was very upset that her owner had left her home alone.

This hat is a one-of-a-kind, handmade beauty in black velour felt.  The crown and flange brim blocks were custom made for Milli Starr from sketches.  It is trimmed with vintage silver metallic lace, overlaid with a striped ribbon, and hand beaded with tiny Czech glass beads.  The center front is adorned with a metallic straw “feather” with a a pearly center and beaded tassels.

 

Before

Before

The dog managed to get the hat out of a hat box (which had been up on a table) and then mangled it.  The horrible part is that she ate the entire lace and ribbon and bead band (24″ long) and had to be hospitalized for intestinal blockage and observation.  Poor Puppy!  I am so glad she is ok. The dog also managed to eat the grosgrain headsize ribbon, although I have no idea how she got all those tiny pick stitches out.  Luckily, the 1920’s metallic straw centerpiece is entirely unmarred.  I guess it wasn’t as yummy as the ribbons.

 

After

After

This weekend, I will clean and steam the velour felt body, and see if I can get it re-blocked.  It’s doubtful, because the brim edge is very complicated and I know I won’t have enough in the width of the felt to properly block and rope the edge.  And once wire is kinked that badly, it’s done for.  Removing all that hand-stitching will further weaken the felt along the edge.  I’m pretty sure I’ll be starting fresh with a brand new velour felt capeline.  I have just enough metallic lace to do another band and extra beads, etc.  The 1920’s ornament is a one-of-a-kind treasure discovered amongst a trove of dead-stock millinery trims from Paris.  Because it survived, I’ll be able to re-create the custom hat.

A new dog-sitter will be found and all ends well.  I’ll post photos of the duplicate hat once it’s complete.

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Felt Cloches

The past two Thursday nights, I have been teaching a course on basic millinery blocking techniques in which the students design, block, and finish felt cloches.  The first class began with a brief discussion of types of felt (wool, fur, velour, etc) and blanks used in hat making (hoods, flares, capelines, etc).  Each student received a fur felt hood and a was assigned a balsa utility block in their head size.  Then we spent awhile gleefully looking through illustrations of hats from the early twentieth century for ideas and inspirations.  The Dover publications of Everyday Fashions from the 1920’s and Everyday Fashions of the 1930’s were a big hit.

After a quick demonstration by me, the students turned on the steamers and began. Each had a different color and a very different design in mind, which was perfect as I was able to assist one-on-one and share a variety of techniques with everyone.  Here’s a photo of the hats after they came out of the oven: a slouch fedora, a Deco pleated cloche, and a cloche with an asymmetrical, slashed brim (the charcoal one in the back is my demo).

Fur Felt Hats on Balsa Utility Blocks

During the second class, hats were removed from the balsa blocks and millinery grosgrain was hand-stitched in to stabilize the head size.  Some fine-tuning was done with the steamer, stretcher, and steam iron.  Victoria decided her crown was too high, so I walked her through cutting the crown from brim, then inserting the brim (with excess) into the crown and stitching all back together again.  A nice trick for a high crown, but also if one wanted a contrast-color crown and brim.  Brims were trimmed down if needed, then sanded lightly.  After the addition of ribbon bands and a feather or flower, voila!  Three wonderful wear-able felt hats.

 

Don't they look proud of their hats?

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