hats

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September

Looking back, I’m not sure exactly where September went, although I had lots of different small projects going, including bridal orders, teaching (and taking) classes at Stitch Lab, a “Hello Birdie!” hat collaboration for a silent auction, and ramp-up to a costume design project, which was cast in mid-September.

At Stitch Lab, I taught my second round of the Buckram Series in which students learn how to pattern and build a buckram and wire frame pillbox AND also how to block buckram to make a cocktail hat or fascinator base.  I love this class because it is so labor-intensive (3 full Saturdays in a row) and rewarding.  Buckram is a wonderful millinery foundation material that is incredibly versatile.  Somehow I failed to take photos of the hats made by my students (perhaps they’re on the Lab camera rather than my personal one???) but here’s a shot of two buckram frame hats that I made earlier this year for an art exhibit:

 

Mini Top Hat and Heart-shaped Pillbox, both in red silk taffeta

Mini Top Hat and Heart-shaped Pillbox, both in red silk taffeta

I did take photos for the next class, Felt Cloche, which I taught on Sept 17 and 24.  Kat, Nancy, and Maggie were delightful students and we all had fun blocking and trimming, whilst wishing for cooler weather to arrive so that the new hats could be worn!

 

Fur felt hoods blocked on balsa forms

Fur felt hoods blocked on balsa forms

 

Kat in her charcoal grey cloche with hand-dyed silk ribbon and vintage buckle

Kat in her charcoal grey cloche with hand-dyed silk ribbon and vintage buckle

I had the pleasure of taking a 4-class series from the talented Kathleen McTee (pic’d above) in Screen Printing, which was a textile technique that I hadn’t played with much since undergrad Surface Design classes.  She is a wonderful instructor and I love how accessible she makes the art of making and using silk screens.  I had hoped to experiment with screening designs onto unblocked hoods and capelines, and was thrilled with my results.  I’ll definitely be incorporating some hand silk screened motifs into Milli Starr’s spring 2010 collection.

 

Sample silk screen on parasisol straw

Sample silk screen on parasisol straw

 

I also made bigger screens for t-shirts, wall prints, etc, of which my favorite is this one, taken from an image of Isabella Blow.  She was an incomparable fashion eccentric and muse.  And hat lover, of course.

 

Silk screen of Isabella Blow

Silk screen of Isabella Blow

Finally, I accepted an invitation to collaborate on an “art hat” for the 6th Annual “Hello Birdie!” event benefitting Uplift Austin.  While I often donate a hat or headpiece to a good cause, this was the first time I have ever collaborated with another artist, and while it was a great learning experience, I would definitely approach a joint-production differently in the future.

I worked with artist Curlin Reed Sulivan to design a birdhouse-inspired hat for their silent auction.  We decided upon a design and a color - chartreuse - then I blocked the hat, wired and finished it, and stitched on all of the trims, including a darling flower girl and bird which were needle-felted by Curlin.  Here she is modeling the finished hat:

 

"A Little Birdie Told Me..." by Milli Starr & Pippingtooth Studios

"A Little Birdie Told Me..." by Milli Starr & Pippingtooth Studios

Cute, huh?  Curlin creates all sorts of Flower Girls including greeting cards, shadow boxes, vases, even embroidery kits.  You can shop her darling art online at Pippingtooth Studio.

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August & Cowboy Chic

Austin Fashion Week blurred into my next big event, entitled “Cowboy Chic”, on August 5th at a wonderful boutique, Beyond Tradition, in Austin’s 2nd Street District.

Event Poster by Grafix by Dell.  Model Photography by La Pistola.

Event Poster by Grafix by Dell. Model Photography by La Pistola.

The evening featured Milli Starr and Deborah Main Designs, winner of Austin Fashion Week’s “Best Home Decor” award.  DMD is known for its exquisite handmade pillows, including a collection using vintage souvenir scarves from Texas and other western states.  The scarves have wonderful colors and motifs of bucking broncos, cowboys and cowgirls, cacti, and of course, landmarks and tourist destinations of yesteryear.

Deborah Main Designs.  photo by JoBelle Smith.

Deborah Main Designs

I spent the last 2 weeks of July blocking and finishing 12 parasisol straw western hats, in a myriad of colors and trims, from vintage metallic braids to peacock feathers and sequins.

Milli Starr western hat modeled by Rachel Elsberry

Milli Starr western hat modeled by Rachel Elsberry

Hats, pillows, and traditional Southwestern turquoise and silver jewelry were modeled in a mini-fashion show; everyone indulged in food from III Forks and margaritas from Cantina Laredo, while enjoying live music from fiddle phenomena Ruby Jane Smith.   “Cowboy Chic” was incredibly well-attended and loads of fun.  Here’s a few more pics (courtesy of JoBelle Smith):

 

Model Jessa Peters

Model Jessa Peters

 

Model Christian Ramirez

Model Christian Ramirez

 

Love this shot of a blue hat with feather band.

Love this shot of a blue hat with feather band.

 

Ruby Jane in a ruby-red hat

Ruby Jane in a ruby-red hat

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Just a head’s up because I know more details will be coming…

Milli Starr is one of the participating designers in the first-ever Austin Fashion Week, July 13-19.  It should be TONS of fun with local designers (clothing, accessories, jewelry, home goods) pairing with boutiques and salons to showcase their fabulous merchandise in mini stores-within-stores for one week only.  There are over 130 events planned all over town, including an awards show Sunday night at the Long Center featuring a fashion show, music, and more, hosted by the beautiful and talented Jenny Hart of Sublime Stitching.

afw_poster_week

I have been paired with Maximum FX salon on South Congress, and while they don’t have the ideal 8′ x 8′ space for me to set up “shop,” I will definitely be down there with some creative merchandising and as many NEW designs as I can find room for —  I’m sure there’ll be feather fascinators alongside the Aveda candles.  :0)

I’ve been working non-stop on two new straw collections, both featuring gorgeous vintage French trims from the mid-20th century.  This orange cloche, hand-blocked with free form pleating and adorned with a carved wooden buckle, is a great preview of the Summer Collection that will be featured at Maximum FX.

 

Summer 2009 Collection

Summer 2009 Collection

There will be an informal fashion show Thursday night with models wearing unique millinery designs by Milli Starr and showing off the latest in hair trends created by the team of Aveda stylists.  On Friday from 2-4 pm, I will be on hand for “Methods of a Mad Hatter,” a hat-making demo featuring some basic blocking and finishing techniques, common millinery materials & equipment, etc.  Please come by and see me!

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I taught another round of the felt cloche class at Stitch Lab last weekend, offering a Friday night/Saturday afternoon workshop that was great.  I didn’t have to schlep all of the steamers and blocks twice, a student was able to come from the Dallas area and attend with minimal travel expenses, plus it allowed for a continuity in the hat-making process which was wonderful.  Here’s pics of the two very different designs that resulted:

Sharon blocked a deep cloche hat with an up-turned, asymmetrical brim that was fringed along the front edge - fun! - and slashed above the left ear to reveal a “feather” bauble and the vintage silk velvet ribbon band.

 

Felt Cloche with Fringed Brim

Felt Cloche with Fringed Brim

And Ginger blocked a sportier hat with a pleated crown and brim, all neatly topstitched by hand.  With excess felt trimmed from the brim and a gold-tone button, she fashioned a petaled flower for the side and found the perfect brown rayon and metallic ribbon for the band.  Too cute!

 

Brown Hat with Felt Flower

Brown Hat with Felt Flower

Just for kicks, I’ll also post  a couple images of a fur felt hat I made yesterday using the same basic techniques and balsa utility blocks that we use in the Felt Cloche class.  This hat is blocked from a capeline, rather than a hood, and is the historical bicorne shape, perfect for trims — hand-dyed silk ribbons, antique buckles, and three ostrich plumes for this particular beauty.

 

Felt Bicorne with Silk Ribbons (F)

Felt Bicorne with Silk Ribbons (F)

 

Felt Bicorne (Side)

Felt Bicorne (Side)

It is a donation for a silent auction at Austin’s French Legation Museum which hosts a Bastille Day event annually.  Go bid on my hat, hear Olivier Giraud & Continental Graffiti play music reminiscent of Paris in the 1930’s, dance, and indulge in French food & wine, all while supporting a beautiful historic structure in East Austin.  Ooh la la!

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Sigh!  I am finally admitting to myself that a trip to London is not happening this Spring and I will not be able to view the major hat exhibition that is currently at the Victoria & Albert Museum.  Entitled “Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones”, the exhibit encompasses l7 centuries of millinery and includes hats from the V&A permanent collection, the Stephen Jones label, as well as private collections.  It runs through May 31, 2009.

In case you aren’t familiar with the work of British milliner Stephen Jones here is a brief bio:

Stephen Jones

The Milliner Stephen Jones

Stephen Jones studied fashion at St Martin’s School of Art. His early millinery designs were influenced by the colorful and glamorous New Romantics (think Boy George) who populated London in the 1980’s.  Since then he has produced hat collections under his label ‘Stephen Jones Millinery’, while also collaborating with designers including Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Comme des Garçons and Marc Jacobs.

 

Jones for Marc Jacobs Spring 2009

Jones for Marc Jacobs Spring 2009

Basically, the V&A allowed Jones access to their hat collection and he spent a year looking at thousands of hats.  He says:

“The criteria for selecting hats were surprisingly straightforward: a delicious brim line, spectacular detailing, an intriguing provenance, designs that somehow linked past, present and future.”

Model Erin O'Connor in Jones

Model Erin O'Connor in Jones

 

 

If you’re also unable to go, you can console yourself with some fabulous resources that are associated with the exhibit.  I just ordered the hardcover book

Hats: An Anthology

Just $27 at Amazon!

and spent time enjoying all the photos and videos on the V&A website.  There is a great clip “Creation” on the making of the top hat worn by Jones in the above photo.  And fun shots of his assistants at work in the clip entitled “Stephen Jones.”  Enjoy!

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Felt Cloches

The past two Thursday nights, I have been teaching a course on basic millinery blocking techniques in which the students design, block, and finish felt cloches.  The first class began with a brief discussion of types of felt (wool, fur, velour, etc) and blanks used in hat making (hoods, flares, capelines, etc).  Each student received a fur felt hood and a was assigned a balsa utility block in their head size.  Then we spent awhile gleefully looking through illustrations of hats from the early twentieth century for ideas and inspirations.  The Dover publications of Everyday Fashions from the 1920’s and Everyday Fashions of the 1930’s were a big hit.

After a quick demonstration by me, the students turned on the steamers and began. Each had a different color and a very different design in mind, which was perfect as I was able to assist one-on-one and share a variety of techniques with everyone.  Here’s a photo of the hats after they came out of the oven: a slouch fedora, a Deco pleated cloche, and a cloche with an asymmetrical, slashed brim (the charcoal one in the back is my demo).

Fur Felt Hats on Balsa Utility Blocks

During the second class, hats were removed from the balsa blocks and millinery grosgrain was hand-stitched in to stabilize the head size.  Some fine-tuning was done with the steamer, stretcher, and steam iron.  Victoria decided her crown was too high, so I walked her through cutting the crown from brim, then inserting the brim (with excess) into the crown and stitching all back together again.  A nice trick for a high crown, but also if one wanted a contrast-color crown and brim.  Brims were trimmed down if needed, then sanded lightly.  After the addition of ribbon bands and a feather or flower, voila!  Three wonderful wear-able felt hats.

 

Don't they look proud of their hats?

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Introduction

the millinerI can’t believe I am actually joining the blogosphere. For those of you who know me, it’s immediately apparent that I am “old school” and shun most modern technology, fads, and social phenomenon like MySpace and Facebook. I wear mostly vintage; don’t have a television, an iPhone, or even a microwave. I am never happier than when practicing my profession, the nearly-lost art of traditional millinery. I make hats, headpieces, bridal veils, and fascinators. Gorgeous adornments made by hand, using a collection of antique wooden hat blocks, a vintage Jiffy millinery steamer, and a 1920’s hat stretcher.

About a decade ago, I spent two years in a Graduate Program at the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC. I focused my energies on textile and costume history, conservation, and exhibition within a museum context. But I indulged myself with an additional line of study, enrolling in the Millinery Certificate program of FIT’s Accessory Design Department. I had always wanted to study hat-making, and FIT is one of a handful of institutions left in the world with an in-depth millinery program. I highly recommend the department, as well as FIT in general, to anyone interested in pursuing fashion or textile arts.

I currently reside in Austin, Texas with my husband and daughter, plus a crazy bird named Vegas. I have a home-studio in which I design all sorts of millinery wonders, from simple hair clips and feather fascinators to elaborate toppers for the Kentucky Derby. I have clients all over the US, and my hats have traveled all over the world. Examples of my work can be seen on my website, Milli Starr.

In Autumn 2008, I began teaching millinery classes at a sewing studio in South Austin. I offer courses on basic sewn hats, buckram construction, as well as blocking methods. I hope to use this blog as an informal online extension of these classes, sharing my enduring love of hats and the art of millinery, including techniques, projects, inspirations, and more.

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